Wednesday, October 24, 2012

The very basic steps of prep work for Prey Model Raw feeding.

Step 1. Buy raw boneless meats, bone in meats, and organs (especially liver).

Step 2. Cut up meat and portion out meals according to dog's needed amount using scale.
(amount info link at the bottom of this post)

Step 3. Package portioned meals in freezable food bags or containers.

Step 4. Place all raw food containers in freezer.

Step 5. Pull out a couple meals worth of food and defrost in the fridge in plastic container, or if in a bag, place bag in a mixing bowl to prevent any potential leaks from bag as the raw food thaws.

Step 6. Take raw food out of bag/container, place in dog bowl and feed.

Repeat steps as needed.


Prey Model Raw Feeding Guides, Amounts, and How to get started
http://preymodelraw.com/how-to-get-started/
http://preymodelraw.com/getting-started-quick-start/
http://rawfeddogs.org/rawguide.html
http://pugglerawfeeding.blogspot.com/2012/10/raw-feeding-amounts-and-weekly-menu.html

Realistic about raw and my transition experience.

On some raw websites or forums you'll hear raw touted as almost a "miracle cure" for every ailment, and to be honest that's just not the case.  Sometimes feeding raw can help greatly with allergies, GI issues, bladder stones, bladder infections, yeast infections, cancer, seizures, skin conditions, etc., and sometimes it doesn't, it often just depends on the dog.  I want to say though that more often than not, the dog improves on raw, because you're feeding a higher quality of nutrition, fresh, whole raw foods that are highly digestible compared to processed commercial kibble and canned foods. 

Some Raw Feeding Success Stories
(some stories are the same on both sites as the two sites are related)
http://preymodelraw.com/raw-success-stories/
http://dogfoodchat.com/forum/raw-feeding/2265-success-stories.html
http://dogfoodchat.com/forum/raw-feeding/15766-raw-diet-skin-allergies.html
http://dogfoodchat.com/forum/raw-feeding/15393-pmr-pros-cons-progress.html

I do know from experience it can take a few months to really know if feeding a raw diet can be helpful or not for certain health problems.  And then there are certain health conditions like kidney disease, or Canine Hyperuricosuria where a certain type of raw diet like Prey Model Raw, is not ideal, and would need to be modified for the specific health condition.  If you're thinking about trying a raw diet, and your dog has a certain health condition, it may be best to seek advice from a animal nutritionist or vet before trying the diet.

When I went through the transition stage of feeding raw, it wasn't always easy, and I almost quit at the 4th month mark because I wasn't seeing much results, it took about 6-8 months of feeding raw before I got the results of the really shiny coats, whiter teeth, healthier gums, weight loss, etc.  During the transition phase Lola experienced hunger pukes at night sometimes, puking up the undigested bone, their poop was soft one day and hard the next, and their coats were very dull.  Ronny went through cycles of shedding and dandruff, it was discouraging.  However it's not uncommon for dogs to experience some of these things during the first month or two on raw as their bodies adjust to the diet difference.

Some issues with raw feeding explained
http://preymodelraw.com/help/
http://dogfoodchat.com/forum/raw-feeding/6023-normal-pmr-faq.html




The costs of raw feeding

Feeding commercial premade raw or homemade raw can be expensive, typically commercial premade raw is much more expensive than homemade.

When I first thought about feeding raw, I looked at meat prices and thought, this is gonna be so expensive, but it actually turned out to be cheaper than I thought. Prices do vary depending on where you live and what you have available to you, but some of these tips may help. I've noticed some people find it cheaper to feed than the higher quality more expensive kibbles, some find it about the same price, and some find feeding raw more expensive than feeding any commercial kibble. You usually can include the cost reduction of dental cleanings, which can also vary. The longer you feed raw usually the better you get at making it more affordable.

If it's not affordable to feed fully raw, consider giving a couple raw meals a week in place of kibble (some dogs can handle this, some can't) it's best not to feed kibble and raw in the same meal as they digest differently. I would try feeding RMB's (chicken thighs, drumsticks, turkey necks) first, than maybe later on try fish or a boneless meal of beef or pork going very slowly, too much too soon can cause issues.

The freezer is most important, the bigger the freezer, the more meat you can buy in bulk that's on sale or clearance etc. to save money. Craigslist can be a great place to buy freezers used. Just one of my freezers (the 5 cubic ft), holds about 120lbs of meat which lasts me about almost 3 months. Unlike humans, dogs can eat meat that is freezer burned as long as it has remained frozen, and even "stinky" few days old meat (I would not feed this till the dog has been on raw for a while and can handle the extra bacteria load that can come from spoiled meat). So it's ok to buy meat and freeze it for 6 months before you feed it. As long as the meat stays cold, you can also defrost it and refreeze if you buy in bulk and need to separate the meat out.

Pet Raw Feeding Co-ops are wonderful for buying in bulk and saving money, if you have one in your area you may want to check it out. I don't have one yet, so I mostly shop all my local grocery stores for my meat or my local farmers human food Coop .

I buy fish, chicken, turkey, beef, and pork for their usual variety diet, added together the price per pound I pay averaged comes to around 1.60/lb, you usually feed between 1.5-3% of your dogs ideal body weight, if I can feed more meat under 1.00/lb it makes it more affordable. Sometimes I will splurge for other kinds of meat once in a while to add a little more variety to their diet like goat, lamb, etc.  For my 23lb puggle who eats 6.5 oz per day, and 38lb beagle mix who eats 8.5 oz a day, it costs me on average, about 1.60-2.00 a day to feed both dogs.  If I subtract the costs of vet dentals, because my dogs haven't needed them eating raw bones, the cost isn't more than feeding most average or better commercial kibbles.

I occasionally shop the weekly sales, check out sale flyers or look for clearance meat anytime I happen to be at a Grocery store or Super Walmart etc. I've scored 40lbs of ground beef for 1.00/lb, a beef brisket from Walmart on clearance for 1.60/lb, chicken leg quarters for .60/lb etc. Whole turkeys around thanksgiving can be as cheap as .78/lb or even .69/lbs right after so you can buy a few freeze them and later cut them up into meals. I also buy meat from my local farmers coop, I can get grassfed ground meat trim mix for 1.50/lb and big lamb bones with lots of grassfed meat still on them for about 6 huge bones for 5.00.

Turkey necks on clearance at Walmart.
Shopping your local ethnic grocery stores can also be a great way to save money and get more unusual variety of meats and organs.

While beef and pork can be expensive per pound, chicken is usually fairly cheap, specially when it's on sale. I might pay as much as 1.90/lb for beef on sale or on clearance, but only pay .60 a pound for bone in unenhanced chicken quarters on sale, which helps to average out the cost of the beef.

Once your dog is past the "transition phase" and is used to all the meats you will be feeding in their diet, you can feed bone in chicken every day for one of your meals and a variety of boneless meat for the other meal, which can bring down the cost.

Example: (Ideally the more red meat the better, but this ok to do if you are on a tight budget.)

Mon morning chicken thigh / Mon night boneless pork shoulder meat
Tues morning chicken thigh / Tues night boneless beef brisket meat
Wed morning chicken drumstick / Wed night raw fish
Thurs morning chicken thigh/ Thurs night boneless turkey

You can look for heart, tongue, and gizzards which count as meat (as opposed to organ) in the world of raw feeding, but are often cheaper than other muscle meats. Do not feed organs that count as meat till you have fully transitioned to the diet and are feeding organs that count as organs like liver and kidneys etc. because they are heart and gizzards etc. are rich and you do need to introduce them very slowly, just like you introduce liver. Ground meats are ok to feed as long as it's not too often, the only ground meat I usually feed are beef or lamb(on clearance). Ground meats tend to have higher amounts of bacteria.

Sometimes I'll feed more red meats if I get a good deal on them, I also may feed 3 meals of the oily fish instead of two depending on how much fish oil I supplement with (It's very important they get enough omega 3)

Other sources to get meat include talking to a local butcher and see if you can get scraps cheap, ask about the meat that they would normally throw out, that is almost out of date, that people ordered and didn't pick up, their freezer clean-outs, and parts that don't sell (like trachea, lungs, spleen, etc.). Some butchers will save their trim for you (once they get to know you). Build a relationship with them first. Many butchers will give you these things for free, once they know you (and especially if you are a regular customer who buys meat for yourself). Some places may say no due to liability, but private small butchers may be more willing to deal.

Any local food distributor/supplier (where restaurants order their food from) may allow you to buy in bulk and save money.

Or check with some restaurants maybe one could add your order to theirs, or offer to give you their unused meat they would otherwise have to throw out.

Local farmers may be willing to give you a deal or local hunters that may be willing to share their meat, or need to clean out their freezers etc. You can find hunters (and their unwanted meat) by posting a notice on bulletin boards where they may congregate (like feed, tractor, country supply, sports, army supply, or gun stores), or at hunter check points, and by posting in online hunter's forums. *Freeze any wild game meat or fish for at least 2 months before feeding.

My state offers a free deer exchange program, where a hunter can give a deer away if he doesn't want it. Check your local laws, I think in most states it's illegal to buy or sell wild game meat privately, but you may be able to pay for part of the processing fee.

Check out the meat processing plants and/or slaughter houses – they process the animals for farmers or hunters(amongst others). You can often get the left over pieces for free.

Ask a few of your local grocery stores and butchers what it would cost to order things for you by the case. Compare prices. One of the ethnic markets butcher told me if I buy more than 40lbs of meat at a time they'll give me close to at cost prices, I haven't done it yet because my freezer is still pretty packed with good deals I picked up.

Some people do post ads on Craigslist or Free-cycle etc. for free meat, like if someone is cleaning out their freezer and has any old meat that isn't processed or seasoned. I haven't tried this, but I know some people who are comfortable doing this and have scored great deals (65-100lbs of meat for free).










Poop

Yes I'm writing a blog post on raw poop.  Why you ask? Because it's an important part of a Prey Model raw diet and in general can be a really nice benefit of most raw diets.

Most dogs on PMR have a lot smaller poop, usually about 50% less compared to average commercial kibble fed dogs.  The other cool thing about the poop is that it degrades faster, so within a couple days (depending on temp) the poop can turn to white dust and just degrade into the soil or blow away in the wind.  I use to have to pick up my backyard every couple of days and in the spring I always had a ton of dog poop from the winter months that got frozen.  Since feeding raw I don't have to pick up the poop in the warmer months and there is less in the spring.  I love not having poop piles in my yard from weeks prior, and not having to pick up the yard much now.

Lola's (puggle) raw poop with a quater to show size.

Raw poop 2 days old, degrading into white dust.
 Raw feeders also use the poop to tell us things about the dogs diet.  For example, loose or runny stool means not enough bone is being fed or too much organ is being fed, and crumbly dry stool means too much bone is being fed or not enough organ is being fed.  

In the first few months of feeding raw, yellowish stool can indicate chicken or turkey was fed, and when the stool is dark brown almost black it can be an indication that organ is being fed (sometimes too much organ). In the first few months you can also notice more pieces of undigested bone in the poop, as the dog adjusts to the diet, and their stomach acid adjusts, the bone pieces disappear as the dog is processing them better.  

Raw feeders often check their dog's stool as a guide to know how they are doing on the diet and if they need to add more or less of something. 











Feeding Raw Bones

In the Prey model raw style of feeding, we do feed a certain percentage of raw bones.  This does many things for the dog, it's a highly digestible source of calcium, and phosphorus for proper bone and teeth health.  It also is a good source of fiber, and is the "stool firmer" in the diet.  And probably one of the best benefits, they are really good teeth and gum cleaners (better than anything else I've tried).

There are two different kinds of raw bones raw feeders usually feed:

Raw Meaty Bones (RMB's) - These bones are consumed and eaten by the dog with raw meat surrounding them, they are usually the smaller and softer raw bones, making it easier for the dog to chew and eat.  Examples of RMB's are: Bone in chicken parts (thighs, drumsticks, quarters, breasts, backs), bone in turkey parts (necks and wings), pork rib bones, bone in rabbit, fish (certain kinds), cornish hen, or duck parts, and lamb ribs.  Larger animals Deer, Cow, Bison, etc. are usually too large and the bones are too hard for a dog to chew and consume properly.

* Some of these bone depend on the size of the dog as to if they can be consumed.

For a puggle, chicken/cornish hen thighs, drumsticks, breasts, turkey necks, and bone in fish, can make some good RMB's.

Raw Recreational Bones (Rec Bones)- These raw bones are only meant for cleaning and recreational chewing, the dog does not consume these bones.  Usually these bones are from the larger animals like Deer, Cow, Bison, etc.  Examples of Rec bones are: raw beef rib bones, beef marrow bones, raw beef knuckle bones, raw lamb necks, beef leg bones, deer leg bones, etc.

*Again the size of the bone matters with the size of the dog to prevent choking risks.  And with the rec bones, if you have power chewers, you need to be careful as the larger harder bones could cause teeth breakage or chips.

For a puggle, beef rib back bones, lamb neck bones, can be good Rec bones.

**With the raw beef rib bones you want to separate them individually (for small dogs), trim off some fat (if your dog isn't use to eating raw or eats kibble usually), trim off some meat (if this is not being fed as a meal), and cut off the small triangle bone on the end (as it could be a choking hazard).
Raw beef back ribs.
Small triangle end bone cut off beef rib bones.

Risks and Safety info with feeding raw bones properly
Feeding a dog raw bones can be a controversial subject. Some vets will be against it, and some vets, like mine, are fine with it. A dog's physiology and anatomy (teeth, jaw movement, neck muscles, stomach acid PH etc.) is all designed for them to chew and eat raw bones. However I do think it's something as a dog owner you have to be comfortable with doing, and as with anything a dog puts
in its mouth (kibble, socks, tennis balls, raw hide bones, greenies, etc.) understand there are some risks.

http://rawfed.com/myths/bones.html

Vet Dr. Peter Dobias on giving your dog raw bones
http://peterdobias.com/community/0201/05/raw-bones-for-dogs/

Vet Dr. Karen Becker on giving your dog bones
 http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/05/09/bone-supplements-for-pets.aspx
 http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2010/05/19/caution-bones-can-kill-your-dog-find-out-which-ones-are-safe.aspx

Vet Dr. Jodie Gruenstern on feeding raw bones
http://www.ivcjournal.com/articles/raw-bones-what-you-need-to-know/

Vet Dr. Will Falconer raw bones and dental health
http://vitalanimal.com/natural-dental-prevention/

Vet Dr. Greg Martinez on feeding raw bones
http://www.thrivingcanine.com/vet_opinion_raw_meaty_bones

Vet Dr. Vicky Payne
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw60Jw4p_KY

 Vet Surgeon Dr. Tom Lonsdale
http://www.rawmeatybones.com/diet/exp-diet-guide.pdf

Vet Dr. Khuly on raw bones.
http://www.petmd.com/blogs/fullyvetted/2008/october/can-raw-meaty-bones-deliver-better-teeth-and-better-behavior-one-vet-and-two-dogs-have-their-say#.UIgg24bubEB

Hyde Park Vet Center
 http://hydeparkvetcentre.blogspot.com/2012/02/can-i-really-feed-raw-bones-to-my-dog.html


 Giving raw bones for teeth cleaning
Some who don't want to or are unable to feed a raw diet to their dogs, still may want to give their dogs occasional raw bones for the dental benefits.  This is certainly fine to do, the same safety precautions apply.  It should be noted that some dogs can experience GI upset when feeding raw bones (RMB's or Rec bones) and kibble together, so it may be advisable to feed kibble in the morning and a raw chicken thigh for dinner or give a raw beef rib bone a few hours after kibble meals.  The rich marrow and raw fat may also give a dog some loose stool in the beginning, because they aren't use to it, if this is the case, try cutting any fat/skin/or marrow off of the bone and gradually leave more of it on each time you give one to the dog.  I've found the the RMB's usually clean the back teeth very well, while the Rec bones clean the front teeth better.

Lola with a large raw beef leg bone.


















Vet opinions on homemade diets and feeding raw.

Vets will have different opinions on raw diets, it can be a controversial topic to bring up with a vet.  I am one that believes in being totally honest with your vet as far as what you feed, just in case of any emergency situations, it's good to know the history of the pet.

On a side note, some vets have more nutritional education than others and that's something to consider when choosing a vet and listening to what they have to say on nutrition.  Here is some perspective on this from a couple of vets. 

Vet Dr. Andrew Jones
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/what-does-your-dogs-vet-know-about-nutrition/

Vet Dr. Shawn Messonnier
http://www.lukesallnatural.com/images/WhatdoVetslearnaboutnutrition.pdf

I currently see a holistic vet, and a regular vet, who both are very open and accepting of me feeding a raw diet, as long as I was doing it properly.  This wasn't the case with my last regular vet who wanted me to feed Science diet, I was concerned that in a medical situation he might not be able to consider any other cause of an illness beyond the raw feeding and might be too quick to blame the diet for any cause of illness before having real proof of it and not look for other possible causes.  So I switched to a more accepting and understanding vet, who was willing to work with me, with wanting to feed raw.  I love that he even sells commercial raw at his vet practice, along side of the Science diet of course.

Other vet's positive thoughts on raw and cooked homemade diets:
Vet Dr. Peter Dobias
http://peterdobias.com/community/2012/07/american-veterinary-medical-association-proposes-vote-against-against-raw-food/

Vets Dr. Russel Swift, and Dr. Micheal Fox
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/manufactured-foods-cats-dogs/
http://rawfeddogs.org/toxic.html

Vet Dr. Doug Knueven
http://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/vet-education-series/small-animals-benefit-on-whole-foods-diet.aspx

Vet Dr. John Simon
http://www.doc4pets.com/holistic-services/nutrition/health-strengthening-feeding-concepts.html

Vet Dr. Bruce Syme
http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106&Itemid=112

Vet Dr. Patrick Mahaney
http://www.petmd.com/dog/nutrition/evr_dg_raw_food_diet_for_dogs

Vet Dr. Michel Selmer
http://www.petsadviser.com/food/benefits-of-a-natural-diet-for-pets/

Vet Dr. Laurie Coger
http://thewholisticvet.com/?p=201

Gladesville Veterinary Hospital
http://www.gladesvillevet.com.au/pages/brochures/information-leaflets/information-leaflet.php?idArticle=9885

Vet Dr. Jeffrey Levy
http://www.homeovet.net/content/lifestyle/section1.html

Vet Dr. Rick Saguaro
http://saguarovetclinic.com/dr.-rick-s-corner/healthiest-way-to-eat.html

Vet Dr. David Hopper
https://rawdogfood.co/interview-raw-feeding-vet/

Vet Dr. Jeannie Thomason
http://thewholedog.org/nutrition.html

Vet Dr. Tracy Lord
http://www.vetlord.org/category/dogs/diets-2/homemade-diets/

Vet Dr. Jodie Gruenstern
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/why-your-dog-doesnt-need-that-expensive-prescription-diet/

Hawthorne Veterinary Clinic
http://hawthornevet.com/resources/pet-nutrition

Vet Dr. Jean Dodds
http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/34362052572/raw-dog-food-versus-cooked#.UIr5Z_7S1uo.facebook

Vet Dr. Marty Goldstein
http://www.drmarty.com/what-should-i-feed-my-pet-for-best-health/
http://www.drmarty.com/does-my-pet-need-to-take-supplements-and-if-so-why/

Wolf Rock Animal Health Center
http://www.wolfrockanimals.com/news/articles-aftertherecall.html

Vet Dr. Nick Thompson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGkOfdxsBM4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoPoYCb7ooY

Vet Dr. Monique Maniet
http://www.vhcdoc.com/resources/RawFood.html

Vet surgeon Dr. Tom Lonsdale
http://www.rawmeatybones.com/articles/nexus.pdf

Vet Dr. Andrea Tasi
http://feline-nutrition.org/health/a-vets-view-andrea-tasi-vmd

Vet Dr. Will Falconer
http://vitalanimal.com/feed-for-vitality/
 

                        Vet Dr. Karen Becker on feeding homemade diets to pets.


    Vet Dr. Judy Morgan discusses pros/cons of different diets for dogs.
                                   

  





Raw feeding risks and fears

Like anything else your dog puts in it's mouth, feeding raw is not without its risks.  After feeding raw for almost 4 years now, I feel I have a better understanding of how common those risks seem to be, and a large part of avoiding them, is feeding a raw diet properly.

Bacteria and Parasites
Bacteria is an obvious risk with raw, although healthy dogs are physically built to handle it, usually without issue.  That's not to say that dogs have never gotten sick or couldn't, but the likely hood is in my opinion small.

**Raw feeders should be careful and mindful of the local area they live in and their countries meat inspections.  In the USA raw feeders should NOT feed wild caught pacific salmon (due to a deadly parasite), wild boar or wild bear (due to trichinosis), USDA inspected raw pork for human consumption is usually very safe to feed.***

Some links for bacteria/parasite concerns and dogs. . .
http://rawfed.com/myths/bacteria.html
http://www.thewholedog.org/salmonella.pdf
http://rawfed.com/myths/parasites.html

                                        Vet Dr. Karen Becker discusses feeding raw and dogs


Vet Dr. Karen Becker Videos on Raw diet Myths and Truths
Raw feeding myths and truths Part 1
Raw feeding myths and truths Part 2
Raw feeding myths and truths Part 3

Vet Dr. Will Falconer
http://vitalanimal.com/food-safety-and-raw-meat/

Vet Dr. Peter Dobias
http://www.peterdobias.com/blogs/blog/11017341-celebration-of-bacterial-superheroes 


Vet Dr. Nick Thompson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yloWoUkvjY

Vet Dr. Jean Hofve
http://www.littlebigcat.com/blog/avma-vs-raw-food/

Bacteria risks for humans from feeding raw, it would be foolish to say it never happens, but in my 4 years of feeding raw and having my dogs lick me, and everything, I've haven't gotten sick (yet).  A little common sense I think goes a long way here with proper handling of the raw food and cleaning, the same as when someone handles and prepares raw meat for cooking their own meals.

Some links for bacteria concerns and humans. . .
http://rawfed.com/myths/zoonotic.html
http://www.fsis.usda.gov/FACTSheets/Cleanliness_Helps_Prevent_Foodborne_Illness/index.asp

I admit I was concerned about bacteria when I first started raw feeding, so scared in fact I washed the raw meat with GSE (grapefruit seed extract) before feeding, which was a pain and makes no sense now, but at the time it made me feel more secure about it I guess.

We don't live in a sterile environment by any means, bacteria is everywhere, on lots surfaces indoor and outdoor.
CBS news Top household spots for bacteria

Also kibble certainly isn't bacteria free and sterile either, hence a lot of the recalls due to salmonella and the more recent incidents linked to human illnesses. You can look up several pet food recalls over the years due to salmonella contamination.
http://www.cdc.gov/salmonella/dog-food-05-12/index.html

According to the FDA. . . 
"On average in the fiscal years 2007, 2008 and 2009, 9.8 percent of pet foods and 4.8 percent of pet treats tested were positive for Salmonella. Summary data for survey results in fiscal years 2010 and 2011 aren’t yet available."
http://news.vin.com/VINNews.aspx?articleId=20432 
 
Bones
Feeding raw bones is another risk associated with feeding raw and rightfully so, just like anything else a dog puts in its mouth to chew, there can be risks.  Raw bones can be a very important part of a raw diet because they provide a good highly digestible source of calcium, phosphorus, and fiber.  To minimize the risk with bones, it's important to feed them properly.  You only should feed raw bones, never cooked, and feed appropriate sized bones for your individual dog.   

More info on raw bones and dogs
http://rawfed.com/myths/bones.html 
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2010/05/19/caution-bones-can-kill-your-dog-find-out-which-ones-are-safe.aspx 

Nutritional Deficiencies
This a risk for home prepared diets, cooked or rawRaw diets usually have less of a chance of deficiency because the food in theory should be more nutritionally complete, no nutrients destroyed by the cooking process.  If someone doesn't feed enough of a variety of foods, or organs, or a calcium source (raw bones, bone meal, egg shells, etc.) you could end up having some serious nutritional deficiencies that can result in serious health problems.  This is why if you're considering doing a home prepared diet (raw or cooked) that you research it well, so you understand how to feed it properly. Some Raw feeding nutritional data information
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bone-food-values-for-raw-feeding-dogs/
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/raw-diets-for-dogs-getting-enough-vitamins-and-minerals/
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/why-organ-meat-is-important-for-the-raw-fed-dog/




















Supplements and Treats with Raw

When raw feeding, especially if feeding a large variety, you really don't need to supplement much.  If you look at the nutrients in the raw foods, and then remember that raw means the food will also still contain all the natural enzymes for easy digestion, you're pretty set.  Homemade raw diets have to add far less supplements than homemade cooked diets due to the nutrient loss in the cooking, and commercial raw shouldn't have to add anything.

Raw feeders vary on what they like to supplement their diets with, sometimes it can depend on the diet or quality of diet they're feeding too.

As a Prey Model Raw Feeder I like to supplement with:
Natural Fish oil (Omega 3) and Natural Vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol)
These are needed if you don't feed grass fed meats or enough oily fish (mackerel and sardines). I like human grade supplements because often times you can get better quality than pet ones, however a good pet/human brand is Nordic Naturals. The omega 3 helps to balance out all the omega 6 you feed in the meats, it's also good for joint heath, cell health, eyes, heart, skin/coat health. If the omega 3 you buy doesn't have Vitamin E with it, you should buy some, as Omega 3 depletes vitamin E in your body from the oxidation process.

Usually I give 1,000 mg of omega 3 per 20lbs and 200IU of natural vitamin E per 40lbs.  Fish oil is heat and light sensitive, so it's best to keep it in the fridge.




                                         Lola and Ronny taking their Fish oil and Vitamin E
                                                  (Lola score an extra one, it  happens).

 Another supplement I give occasionally is Organic, cold pressed, unrefined, Coconut oil
(not palm oil).  Coconut oil is great for their skin/coats, it also seems to help my dogs when they get a little bug as it has antiviral, antifungal, and antibacterial properties.  I usually give one spoonful to each dog.


I occasionally like to add a kelp supplement because of the trace minerals it can add to the diet that may be lost in the farming soil.  I think it just enriches the diet, and is a good source of Iodine. That said, caution should be used with kelp type supplements, I would not advise giving a kelp supplement on a daily basis, as too much iodine can cause thyroid function issues like thyroid suppression.  Or sometimes I'll add Missing link, although neither supplement is really needed with the raw diet. 

For treats on the raw diet I like to dehydrate my own chicken (or you could do liver or other organs or meats) in the oven or with a food dehydrator.












Raw feeding amounts and weekly menu example

The raw feeding amounts will vary depending on the size of the dog, the type of diet Prey Model Raw, or Barf, or some type of commercial raw.

With Prey model raw,  the general basic diet guidelines are feed a variety of raw meat (about 80% of the diet), raw bones (about 10% of the diet), and raw organs (about 10% of the diet/5% of the 10 always being liver), in the amount between 2-4% of the dog's ideal weight depending on the individual activity level and metabolism of the dog.  If one is unsure, usually starting out at 2.5% of the ideal body weight is recommended and then adjust from there as needed.

Making sure the diet is balanced or that you're feeding the right amount can be a concern, the spreed sheet below from the Dogster raw feeding forum is great at providing that info. You can plug in your dogs (ideal) weight and active level and it will show you the break down of everything, how much bone, how much organ, minerals, etc. that your dog personally needs, it also has some suggestions for feeding on the second page I think. I used it to help me make sure I was feeding my dogs the right amount of organ and meat everyday according to their weight needs. If your dog needs to loose weight you want to figure out the amount according to your dog's ideal weight, not their current weight.
http://www.netrophic.com/misc/NewPersonalDogFeedingGuide.xls
http://www.dogster.com/forums/Raw_Food_Diet/thread/491589

Some Raw feeding nutritional data information
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bone-food-values-for-raw-feeding-dogs/
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/raw-diets-for-dogs-getting-enough-vitamins-and-minerals/
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/why-organ-meat-is-important-for-the-raw-fed-dog/

For my 23lb puggle, she eats between 3-4 oz, twice a day, so between 6-8oz a day.  I usually watch her body condition and then just adjust if needed.  If she's getting too thin, I'll feed a little more, too fat, I'll feed a little less.
http://www.purina.com/dog/weight-and-exercise/bodycondition.aspx

For more info and guidelines on how to feed Prey model raw check out
http://preymodelraw.com/getting-started-quick-start/
http://preymodelraw.com/how-to-get-started/

Raw feeding tips for newbies
http://dogfoodchat.com/forum/raw-feeding/5792-three-most-important-tips.html

There is a transition phase of 6-8 weeks, where you slowly introduce the raw boneless and bone in proteins one at a time, then eventually add raw organs.

A typical weekly menu for me looks like this now after my dogs have been through the transition phase:

Mon: Breakfast Duck neck (beef liver chunk)/ Dinner Boneless Beef chunks (roast, brisket etc.) or ground beef 

Tues: Breakfast Unenhanced Chicken thigh (chicken liver chunk) / Dinner Boneless turkey and a couple chunks of beef heart and green tripe

Wed:  Breakfast Unenhanced Chicken thigh (beef liver and kidney chunks)/ Dinner canned mackerel rinsed off (due to salt content)

Thurs: Breakfast Unenhanced Turkey neck (chicken liver chunk)/ Dinner Boneless Pork

Fri: Breakfast Unenhanced Chicken drumstick (beef liver and kidney chunks)/ Diner Raw Tilapia fish

Sat: Breakfast Unenhanced Chicken thigh/ Dinner Boneless lamb and an egg

Sun: Breakfast Canned mackerel rinsed off / Dinner Boneless Beef or Pork and a couple chunks of beef heart or green tripe mix
Lola eating a pork riblet.



The Tools of Raw Feeding


A freezer, either a chest freezer, or an upright, so you can buy and store meat in bulk and shop sales, have more room for hunted meats etc.  You don't have to buy them new, we bought both of our small chest freezers (5 and 7 cubic ft) off of Craigslist for under 100.00 total and they both have been working great. 

The indoor kitchen items include: a kitchen scale (digital is nice), cutting knives, meat cleaver, a pair of kitchen sheers, latex gloves (personal preference, I like to use them when I'm butchering a lot of meat at once so I don't have to wash my hands as much and touch so much raw meat or if I have a cut on my hand etc.), nice large cutting board (one with a rim around the edge is nice to keep meat juices from running all over the counter), large mixing bowl to defrost meat in the fridge with to keep it separated, plastic food containers or bags to portion out meals and then freeze them and lastly ice cube trays to portion and freeze organs, tripe, etc. because you feed less of these and just add one cube to a meal as needed

Cleaning products can be another important tool/part of raw feeding.  I usually use Seventh generation disinfectant spray, or vinegar/baking soda.  I've read of others that use GSE (grapefruit extract), or other natural cleaners.  Obviously if you feel comfortable using bleach or other commercial chemical cleaners, it's certainly an option.  I do wash their dog bowls in the dishwasher to sanitize them, along with any other dishes, knives, cutting boards etc.

One of my favorite cleaning tools is the Lysol hands free soap dispenser (7.00).  It's so nice when your hands are gooky, just to stick them under the sensor for soap.










 

"What kinds of raw meat/bones/organs do you feed?"

I try to feed my dogs a large variety of different raw meats (boneless and bone in), and organs, some examples of what their diet includes are. . .

Bone in and boneless unenhanced chicken, breast and thighs pieces.
Bone in turkey necks.


Bone in Pork Riblets.
Whole bone in Tilapia (fins/tail removed before feeding).


Boneless Beef Roast.
Frozen Beef Liver Ice Cubes


Frozen Venison Heart ice cubes
Frozen Raw green tripe ice cubes
Chicken feet (aka chicken paws)
Grassfed Lamb bone from local farm Coop

Two important things to remember about the food we feed, with raw chicken (and any other meat) it's best if it's "unenhanced" this means there isn't an added sodium solution that can sometimes make some dogs ill unenhanced meats show sodium levels in or around 80mg, it should state on the package and label.  

The second is that when we feed organs they should be as clean as possible (antibiotic/hormone free, organic if possible) and that while it's beneficial to feed kidney, spleen, pancreas, etc., liver is absolutely necessary in the prey model raw diet because of it's nutrient profile, and should make up at least half of the organ requirements for the diet (5% of total diet).












"What does raw feeding look like?"

 
My two dogs Lola (puggle) and Ronny (beagle mix), my parent's two dogs 
Mattie (puggle), Ellie (sight hound mix) and my foster dog JoJo, (boston terrier,
who has since been adopted to a loving home) all enjoying some raw beef ribs. 

 
Lola eating a pork riblet.

Ronny cleaning some meat off a big beef bone.


Lola eating a chicken foot.

 
Lola eating a Beef Rib 


 Other pictures of raw feeding from a raw feeding forum












Wednesday, October 17, 2012

My Puggle Before and After Feeding Raw

                    Lola age 4, before feeding raw, this was taken during one of her more mild 
                    colitis episodes.  She's panting and licking herself because she is in pain,
                    and you can tell she is overweight.                                                   
                                               
                   
                                                    
          Lola age 7, after feeding raw, better weight management, better
       muscle tone, shiny coat, and no more painful colitis episodes.



Last 2 photos above are Lola at almost 9 years of age, almost 4 years
on a homemade, balanced, Prey model raw diet.             


Monday, October 15, 2012

"Why would you feed your puggle raw?"

My Personal Story. . .
If you had told me two years ago I'd soon be feeding my puggle raw, butchering and portioning all kinds of different animal body parts, I would have said you were crazy.  Sometimes when I'm elbow deep in lbs of raw beef heart, or hand off a raw chicken foot to Lola or Ronny, I still can't believe I'm doing this.

It all started a few years ago, when my puggle Lola was diagnosed with chronic colitis at the young age of 2.  Canine colitis is inflammation of the colon, sometimes caused by bacteria.  Lola would have these "episodes" of not eating (nausea), then having pain (contorting her body a lot to try and get comfortable and crying), and her stool would be bloody and jelly like.  These episodes would usually last 6 or 7 hours and she would get them regularly once or twice a week.  When she was really bad she would have to go to the vet for pain meds and Metronidazole  (Antibiotic used for colitis).

I hated seeing her suffer so much, and I tried so many things to try and help make it better.  I had always fed some of the considered "higher quality" dog foods like Innova (before P&G bought Natura), Wellness, California Natural (before P&G bought Natura), Canidae, Taste of the Wild (before some of Diamond's recalls), Nature's Variety, etc.  I rotated them to see if I could find one that could help.  I tried other brands like Nature's Balance, Pinnacle, Pets Promise, even tried Hills Rx I/D food canned and dry.  Tried supplements like fish oil, and probiotics, pet enzyeme powders, cat furball lube (vet's recommendation), adding more fiber to her diet, none of which seemed to make a difference.

I was on a dog forum one day, venting my frustrations, when one of the other members suggested trying a raw diet.  I had heard of it before, but was unsure of it and thought it was an "out there" concept.  Curious and somewhat desperate not to see my puggle in pain anymore, I decided to look into it.  I ended up researching it for a couple months,  I went to raw feeding informational sites and forums and read everything I could on it.  After researching it well, and being so frustrated for 3 years of trying things and getting no improvement with her heath issue, I finally found the courage to try feeding raw. 

The experienced raw feeders on the raw forums and facebook were a god sent, they helped me through my transition phase, gave me support and advice when I needed it, I'm not sure I would have been so successful had I not had them to help guide me.

The switch to a raw diet wasn't an instant "miracle" cure, it took some time on the diet before she really started to improve, so I'm glad I found the patience to keep feeding it, even when I wasn't seeing results at first, or had a set back like an episode after not having one for a while.  Slowly over the first year (about 6-8 months) on the Prey Model Raw diet Lola's colitis episodes started reducing in time from 6 hours to 4 hours, to 2 hours, to 1 hour, to 35 min, at the same time she started having them less often, only once a week, then only once every couple weeks, to once a month, etc., till she stopped having them completely and was back to her old healthy self again, pain free. 

I put my other dog Ronny on the diet too about a month after I started her on it.  Beyond Lola's colitis clearing up, both dogs now have very shiny and soft fur, less odor, whiter teeth (no vet dentals needed), healthier gums, lost extra weight and maintain a healthier weight better, more muscle mass, better blood work (higher RBC count, and lower liver enzymes), cleaner ears (no more ear infections), and they seem to have good energy, but aren't as hyperactive.

A lot of these health improvements/benefits can be pretty common for dogs fed raw diets properly over kibble, even considered "higher" quality kibble. (No offense to kibble feeders, we all do the best we can for our dogs).

Benefits of feeding Raw
http://www.pawsapplause.com/blog/12-benefits-feeding-raw-pet-food/
http://preymodelraw.com/benefits-of-pmr/

Another Puggle raw feeding story
http://pugglesnprose.blogspot.com/2008/03/raw-diet.html



"You feed your puggle WHAT?"

Raw.  Yep, raw meat, raw bones, and the one that really gets the raised eye brows from some, raw organs.  It's a type of raw diet referred to as Prey Model Raw or PMR for short. 

If you do a quick Google search you can discover that there are different types of raw diets out there, but I would say two of the most popular homemade diets are Prey Model Raw and Barf.

Prey Model Raw - Usually a homemade diet of just a variety of raw meats (also eggs), bones, and organs, from different "prey" animals.

Barf (Biologically, Appropriate, Raw, Food)- A homemade diet that usually includes other foods like raw veggies, fruits, sometimes dairy products like cottage cheese, yogurt, etc. along with the raw meats, bones, and organs.

**For more informational websites on these raw diets, you can check out my links section at top.  Homemade raw diets should be well researched before attempting, so they are fed properly.**

My puggle's food use to look like this. . .
Beef kibble meal



Now my puggle's food looks like this. . .

Beef raw meal